Maybe girls DO have to go to Mars to get more candy bars
I read lots of restaurant reviews. LOTS. Mostly reviews of restaurants in cities I've lived to keep up with the food culture (New York, D.C., and Nashville at the top of that list) and reviews of restaurants in cities I'm visiting to figure out where to eat (New Orleans) and reviews of restaurants that have attained national acclaim, which is basically just food-oriented rubber-necking (Alinea in Chicago).
So maybe I'm just a wee bit obsessed. But for all the reviews I read, and as much as I may disagree with a particular review or reviewer, I rarely am stopped in my tracks as I was when I read today's Wall Street Journal review of Momofuku Ko.
For the non-food obsessed among you, Momofuku Ko is basically the It Restaurant of the moment and is the third venture for David Chang, the It Chef of the moment. It serves a prix fixe menu, which means that everyone who walks in the door ostensibly is served the same eight courses (barring food allergies). Since it opened, everything about the restaurant -- from its food to its online reservations system to Chang's own idiosyncracies -- has been chronicled and reviewed to high heaven. But for all these endless pages of glowing text, nothing prepared me for this little detail mentioned in the WSJ review:
There's also the issue of how some of the dishes were presented. My husband and I weren't always given the same dish -- and when two different dishes were brought out "for the lady" and "for the gentleman," we were not given a choice over who got which. Sure, we swapped dishes when we wanted to, but it was peculiar to note that the woman, almost always, seemed to be given the lighter dish. (Ladies, it's more than worth it to fight for some of the "gentleman's" deep-fried apple pie.)
Pardon the pun, but this leaves a bad taste in my mouth. Is food somehow gendered? Am I supposed to prefer certain food by virtue of my vagina and mammaries? Or (perhaps worse) am I supposed to prefer certain lighter choices because of the need to maintain a slender, feminine physique?
And nevermind what happens when a party is not made up of one woman and one man. In a party of two women, do both get the dish "for the ladies"? Or is the chef in the back figuring out which of the two women is more butch and should get the "gentleman's" dish? Give me a break.
Maybe the restaurant is just trying to present an additional dish for its customers to try. But then, why not just add another course? Or why not present the two dishes neutrally, set them down without reference to the parties' gender, and suggest that they share so both people get to try both dishes?
Having eaten at and enjoyed both of David Chang's other restaurants, I have been coveting a meal at Momofuku Ko since before it opened. And I still covet that meal, but, frankly, I'm glad I read about this absurdity before I went. Because if I wasn't prepared for it and someone handed me some weak pansy-ass dessert and gave J-P the deep-fried apple pie on account of my vadge, there would most certainly be hell to pay.

